mini247tom
35 posts
Joined: 25/10/2005 09:02:05
Location: Chatham United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Wheel stud
hi, on sunday i had a flat so i changed the wheel for my steel rim, but in doing so one of the studs snaped, how do i replace it? is it just a case of taking the hub off and changeing the stud from behind? or is there another way of doing it? also can you tell me which stud's i need its a 1993 cooper spi with 13x7 minilites i ordered some already (enjo-1039) i just want to make sure there the right ones. thanks for any suggestions
Posted: Dec 05, 2005 10:06 AM
Emily
4 posts
Joined: 11/06/2007 12:32:13
Location: United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Wheel Studs
Hi, I currently have some ugly gold rims on my mini, they are 10" 5j with 165 tyres on. I have arches on my car which are fine for these. I bought a new set of rims today which are the same 10" 5j as I want to get the gold rims off but I've noticed the wheel studs are too short for the wheels I already have on there.
I was wondering if anyone knows how I can find out what length studs I need? I already have spacers (not built in), and can only presume that as my rims are only 5j, my mini has the origional studs on there at the mo. It's clearly not safe for me to have these short stud on and so I want to get them changed. Can anyone help pleeeeease?! :) x
Posted: Jun 11, 2007 12:45 PM
Neil
28 posts
Joined: 11/02/2005 07:20:41
Location: Chichester United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Hi Emily,
I believe you can get wheelstuds in at least 6 different lengths, (from 35mm to 78mm). I'm sure you are aware there are also a number of options wrt wheelnut "seat angles" required for different wheels, so the nuts need to be the right type as well. What I would do is fit the new wheel onto the car with an "open" wheelnut and then you should be able to measure how far short the stud is from the end of the nut. (Put a cocktail stick or similar into the nut and mark it). Remove the wheel, measure the existing stud and add on the new measurement. Ideally the stud should show at least two full threads through the "open"nut so again add on the appropriate amount, (These open nuts are generally thinner than the closed ones but you MUST ensure that the nuts you eventually use, if they have closed ends, do not bottom on the stud before the wheel is tight). Then choose the closest available stud that meets, or exceeds, your measurement. Be aware that generally stud length is measured from under the head to the end so you need to allow for the flange thickness. Once you know the length I'm sure minispares can supply the studs you require. Hope this helps. Neil
Posted: Jun 11, 2007 02:22 PM
Emily,
Further to above as you stated, obviously, don't drive the car until the correct studs/nuts are fitted
Posted: Jun 11, 2007 02:27 PM
E. Jackson
Thank you very much, will get onto it straight away! Emily
Posted: Jun 12, 2007 11:27 AM
ickle
16 posts
Joined: 27/03/2005 15:14:40
Location: Maidstone United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Wheel Stud
I have just put Cooper S discs on the front of my Mk3 1000 and with the 10x5" wheels on the front they do stick out a bit.
Wheel arches are not a problem, I know what I need there, but the rear wheels are an issue. I clearly need to put some of the later drums with spacers on there to pump the wheels out at the back to match the front, but I'm guessing I'll have to change the wheel studs in the hubs. Does anyone know what size studs I need to change to - surely the originals won't be long enough?
Thanks
Posted: Nov 26, 2007 10:23 AM
John
1948 posts
Joined: 28/05/2006 16:49:46
Location: cambridge United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
you can usually get away with a 5mm spacer on early drums to clear damper but will depend on which alloys you have as offsets vary but if its only just rubbing it should be fine. like that the standard studs should just about be long enouth but again this well depend on what nuts you are using with your corrent alloys thickness where the nut goes. if you fit them and there is more than 5mm thread on end of the studs should be ok. if not you will need to buy some new longer studs.
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=37934
Posted: Nov 26, 2007 11:21 AM
Perhaps I didn't make myself clear.
By adding discs at the front I have made the wheels protrude from the front wings. I now need to add a set of Group2 arches to cover the treads.
I will then need to make the rears wider to look something closer to the fronts. The wheels I have clear the rear shocks etc. as they are on standard unspacered drums. So I will be adding spacered cooper S drums to the rear to push the wheels out closer to the width that the fronts are at. I know I will need longer studs to suit, but which ones?
Posted: Nov 26, 2007 12:15 PM
yes you need new studs or buy this kit, saves buying new drums and studs.
http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?pid=37345
Posted: Nov 26, 2007 01:31 PM
mark
397 posts
Joined: 18/08/2005 14:01:28
Location: Hitchin United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
if you change to the wider rear drums, they have a greater surface area, and are better for stopping,so yes the longer wheel studs will be needed if you fit the fatter rear drums.
Posted: Nov 26, 2007 03:03 PM
i think drums without spacer rear use 1.1/4" wide shoes, drums with built is spacer also use 1.1/4" shoes. only front twin leading shoes drums have 1.1/2" shoes.
if you can show me link to 1.5" rear shoes that would be kool i do make mistakes
thing is rear on mini has always been well catered for in terms of braking. they had limiters and differnt size pistons to try prevent them locking up so wider shoes arnt really nessary.
Posted: Nov 26, 2007 05:04 PM
greater surface area because they have more metal on them
more metal more heat dissipation
and the answer is 'yes' you want to fit the longer studs when changing the rear drums
have you also considered fitting mini fins to the rear ?
Posted: Nov 27, 2007 08:46 AM
i thought you were talking about brake surface area. yes the spaced drums have tiny increase in external surface area but not a significant amount to make a differnce to the performence of the brake. minifin brakes on the other hand having a high surface area and being made of alumnium conduct heat away far better than the cast iron aluminum conducts heat 4 times better than iron so you can see how that will make a diffence as well as aproximatly double the surface area. however saying all this rear drums dont have a problem with brake fad so only really advantage is the reduction in unsprung weight to help the handling the same as when you fit alloy wheels compared to steel wheels.
Posted: Nov 27, 2007 10:07 AM
m445
6 posts
Joined: 28/11/2004 23:01:44
Location: Ypsilanti United States
Broken wheel stud, bang it out?
I snapped a wheel stud removing the tyre. Can you remove the stud by banging it out? It did not move after many hits.
Posted: Mar 07, 2011 02:57 AM
Tim
1848 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Yes, they just push in from behind, so bang it out with a big hammer. It might help to warm the hub with a blowtorch for a while.
Posted: Mar 07, 2011 06:45 AM
Barry Brown
511 posts
Joined: 23/06/2008 12:08:31
Location: New Barn United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
ideally you should remove the hub and support the drive flange on top of a vice when you knock it through otherwise you can distort the flange and then the wheel suffers abnormal pressure when doing it back up and it can set up vibration. You'll need the hub off anyway to press the new one in. Pop the new stud in the freezer for an hour and gentle warm the flange before hand to make life easier (but not so it glows)
Posted: Mar 07, 2011 09:19 AM
Michael
79 posts
Joined: 02/03/2007 23:58:38
Location: Carpi Italy
mini wheel studs
hello everybody. just took my winter tyres of, and 2 studs snaped off at the rear wheels. are they easy to ghange?
Posted: Mar 11, 2012 05:00 PM
They're only a press fit into the hub. You may need to apply a bit of heat first, but basically just whack them with a big hammer.
Posted: Mar 12, 2012 08:58 AM
68Moke
33 posts
Joined: 10/09/2004 21:06:12
Location: Lakeville United States
wheel spacers
The first question to ask is why do you think you need wheel spacers? You did not indicate how these three other people told you how to do it. All you have to do is to remove the wheel, put the spacer on the drum and bolt the wheel back up. I am assuming that you have the standard aluminum spacer with four slotted holes? HOWEVER, you will of course require the proper size of wheel stud. Now that you have put a 3/4 spacer on, you will have to put on a stud that is at least 3/4 of inch longer than the (assumed) stock studs you had. Depending on the type of lug nuts you are using, you do not want to put on a stud that is too long. An acorn type of nut, the stud could bottom out inside the nut. If you are using a stock nut, then no problem with how long you end up with. With the spacer on, you then have to check to see if you have now put the wheel too far out. It might then rub agains the bodywork. Tell us more of your set up.
Posted: Dec 06, 2004 06:21 PM
motorhead
3 posts
Joined: 06/02/2008 19:15:45
Wheels
hey, is there any way to adapt the hubs to take different wheels, either old ford 4 stud or general 5 stud, are there any pcd adapters to fit?
Posted: Feb 06, 2008 07:24 PM